Austrian born Raimund Berthold graduated from the MA at Central Saint Martins in 2005 with an all-white menswear collection that has gone on to define his precise aesthetic. Having spent four years working for some of fashion’s leading brands, Berthold established the label in 2009 with a five-piece collection of lightweight outerwear, which transformed from bags into coats.
He has been showing his eponymous line of bold, elegant menswear on-schedule at London Collections Men since AW15.
The starting point for each season is never one specific reference; a range of traditional details taken from uniforms is often explored and then adapted to work alongside textures and silhouettes reinterpreted from found photography and fine art. The collections are often informed by Berthold’s own contemporary art collection, which includes sculptures by Phyllida Barlow, Franz West and Rebecca Warren as well as work by younger artists such as Eddie Peake, Jordan Wolfson and Klara Liden. An advocate for emerging artists, the label collaborated with Jess Flood-Paddock on a site specific installation at OTHER/Shop in 2013 and supported Ed Fornieles’ first solo show at Chisenhale Gallery in 2014.
The clothes are characterised by a utilitarian sense of colour and a silhouette that is free from defined shape in modern technical fabrics, light Italian wools and thick English cottons.